Parte Terza - Leather and Vintages At Terre de la Custodia
Leather, Vines, and Bold Flavors: An Immersive Journey into Terre de la Custodia
Umbria, often whispered about as the "Green Heart of Italy," conjures images of mist-shrouded valleys, ancient hilltop towns, and a pervasive sense of tranquility. Yet, my recent pilgrimage to Perugia, Umbria to Terre de la Custodia shattered any preconceived notions of quiet rusticity, revealing a dynamic blend of family legacy, audacious innovation, and a surprising embrace of rock 'n' roll rebellion – all bottled within their exceptional wines.
Our exploration commenced not in a hushed cellar, but amidst breathtaking vistas. Perched nearly 500 meters above sea level, overlooking the rolling hills of Umbria, we were greeted with glasses of Gladius, Terre de la Custodia's signature Metodo Classico sparkling wine. Crafted from 100% Chardonnay, it boasted an unexpected pedigree – hailing from the Colli Martani area, distinct from the more familiar Sangrantino territory. A crisp, elegant effervescence balanced by a subtle sweetness and a creamy texture born from 48 months of patiently resting on its lees. Each sip was a toast to the unique terroir and the family's meticulous approach. But this was just the beginning of a flavorful evening. Daniele Sevoli, their head sommelier and brand ambassador explained, they paired this with their liquid gold artistry, olive oil. Unlike mass-produced varieties, this was a carefully curated blend, sourced from four distinct corners of Italy, each imparting its signature character. It blended monovarietals: Frantoio, Leccino, and Rajo, each contributing unique characteristics. What struck me most was the family's unwavering commitment to excellence – foregoing early harvests, opting instead to wait until October to ensure the oil was brimming with beneficial polyphenols. The oil itself was a sensory experience – intensely fruity, almost verdant, with a peppery finish that challenged conventional notions of extra virgin olive oil. It was clear this wasn't merely a condiment; it was a culinary masterpiece.
From Millstones to Modernity: A Family Tapestry
The heart of Terre de la Custodia's identity lies interwoven with its rich history. The family's roots in the area extend back to the 1800s, when they skillfully transformed locally grown olives into precious oil and ground flour, using a traditional stone mill, a testament to resourcefulness and self-sufficiency. The winemaking tradition emerged as a means of providing sustenance for the laborers toiling in the fields, reflecting a deep connection to the land and its people. We learned how each successive generation has embraced the challenge of improvement, skillfully diversifying from flour and olive oil into the realms of craft beer, spirits and premium wine. The family's ability to adapt and evolve, while remaining true to their heritage, was palpable.
My introduction to this captivating estate was guided by Giampaolo Farchioni. He, along with brother Marco and sister Cecilia continue enthusiastically on the same path as their parents. His passion is palpable, his energy contagious as he leads you through the vineyards and cellars. Giampaolo is a storyteller, a visionary who sees the potential for magic in every vine, every barrel, every bottle. He explained the winery's core philosophy: "To be smart, smart, and smart." This wasn't a glib marketing slogan, but a guiding principle encompassing every aspect of their operation. It was about achieving harmony – harnessing the time-honored knowledge and art of winemaking, while carefully listening to the unique nuances and inherent characteristics of their terroir.
Sagrantino Unchained: A Bold New Vision
The undeniable star of the Terre de la Custodia portfolio, of course, is Sagrantino. Giampaolo spoke of how the family began making wine in 1851 due to a legacy from a wedding. Sagrantino is what people want to drink, and production now is 180 acres. We then went out to the vinyards.
One of the most captivating aspects of Terre de la Custodia's approach is their "Exubera" Sagrantino project. The family sought to challenge the traditional perception of Sagrantino, crafting a wine that was both powerful and approachable, complex yet effortlessly drinkable. This involved a delicate balancing act – minimizing extraction during fermentation to tame the tannins, meticulously selecting oak barrels to impart nuanced flavors, and embracing a philosophy of "less is more." The result? An elegant, harmonious wine that redefines the very essence of Sagrantino. While many wineries cater to an exclusive clientele, Terre de la Custodia operates on a different wavelength. Their commitment to accessibility is palpable, a genuine desire to share the pleasure of exceptional wine with a wider audience. It's about breaking down barriers, demystifying the world of fine wine, and creating a welcoming space for anyone who appreciates a well-crafted glass.
Leather Jackets and Innovation: The Rock 'n' Roll Heart of Winemaking
The innovative spirit of Terre de la Custodia manifests even in their bottle design. The Exubera is elegantly encased in a "Sea Bella" bottle, conceived by Mrs. Cassy Bella herself. While its sleek lines and ergonomic curves are undeniably pleasing, the bottle's true brilliance lies in its functionality. The subtle indentations strategically placed along the back and front of the bottle serve to trap sediment, preventing it from clouding the wine during pouring. What began as a practical solution has evolved into a distinctive design element. Giampaolo exuberantly demonstrated his fencing skills with the bottle, which he explained inspired the bottles shape as he recounts his fencing debut from the age of 10 years old.
Perhaps the most unexpected aspect of Terre de la Custodia is its embrace of rock 'n' roll culture, specifically the "rocker" subculture that emerged in 1950s England. Rockers were known for their black leather jackets, powerful motorcycles, and defiant spirit – a spirit that resonates deeply with the family's approach to winemaking. This ethos permeates the winery, influencing everything from the label design to the overall philosophy.
Beyond the Tasting Room: Dreaming of Truffle Hunts
Nearing the end of our meal, the onversation meandered toward another of Umbria's treasured gifts: the elusive truffle. We discussed with Chef Marco the scientific precision employed in truffle cultivation, the vital role of trained truffle-hunting dogs, and the subtle clues that reveal the presence of these subterranean delicacies. I look forward to someday go on one of these hunts with Marco and his dogs! But to end on a spirited note we were treated to their Mastri Birrai spirits portfolio - Gin Hops Dry Gin, Barley Spirit and Bitter.
As the evening drew to a close, I left Terre de la Custodia with a sense of profound connection to this remarkable corner of Umbria. Terre de la Custodia is a celebration of family, innovation, and a spirit of adventure. It's a place where time-honored traditions intertwine with modern techniques, where scientific precision enhances artistic expression, and where the pursuit of winemaking excellence is ignited by a rock 'n' roll heart. If you're seeking an experience that goes beyond the ordinary, pack your bags and head to Montefalco. Just be prepared to be utterly captivated. Grazie per un’esperienza culinaria incredibile.
