Parte Seconda - Sunset Sips and Timeless Traditions: An Intimate Evening Antonelli San Marco & Friends
Imagine standing on a terrace at sunset, overlooking the gentle slopes of Montefalco’s vineyards, as a soft breeze carries the aroma of aging wine and roasted herbs. That was my experience at the magical winery dinner hosted by Antonelli San Marco and some of the region’s most esteemed producers. It was an evening dedicated to celebrating the rich heritage, artisanal craftsmanship, and breathtaking scenery of this extraordinary corner of Italy.
The night commenced with a terraced aperitivo featuring Antonelli Spoletino Spumante, a lively and crisp sparkling wine that immediately awakened my senses. Paired with a decadent chocolate focaccia, its fine bubbles and subtle freshness contrasted beautifully with the richness of the chocolate—an unexpectedly delightful pairing. As I savored this moment, I couldn’t help but marvel at the panoramic views, each angle revealing the undulating vineyards bathed in the warm glow of sunset.
We soon moved into the winery’s glass-walled tasting room, where every seat offered a spectacular view. The Antonelli estate is an architectural marvel, but what struck me most was its history: established in 1881, with roots dating back to the 13th century, the estate’s history is woven into every bottle. I learned that the estate once belonged to the bishop of Spoleto before Francesco Antonelli acquired it in 1883. Today, Filippo Antonelli, the fifth-generation steward, continues this legacy with modern passion and innovation along with the next generation, his daughters Livia and Irene. He shared how they’ve embraced organic farming since 2012, a testament to their commitment to soil health and authentic expression.
Filippo also shared their unique use of German oak from the Pfalz for reds and Austrian oak for whites as well as their relatively new use of concrete and amphorae as we toured the tranquil cellars. Filippo’s pride was palpable as he told stories of his family, his first vintage and his vision for the future of the family. At the table, when he poured two of his favorite wines: the 2019 Chiusa di Pannone Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG, a wine I found remarkably elegant with bold tannins, and the Molino Dell’Attone 2019, which offered an intense aromatic profile of dark berries, licorice, and a hint of cedar. When I asked Filippo which of the two wines he favored most, he didn’t hesitate for a moment. Instantly, he stood up, a twinkle of pride in his eyes, and without a word, returned to our table clutching what he called his “baby.” With a gentle smile, he said, “I can’t choose between my children... but if I had to, this would be this bottle.” He brought out a rare jeroboam, his “baby” (a massive 3-liter bottle) of 2001 Sagrantino di Montefalco, an almost mythical wine that had aged beautifully. Watching his eyes light up as he recounted the story behind this particular bottle was a treat—I could see the family history and decades of tradition bottled into that magic. What truly made this experience truly special was Filippo’s generosity.
Meanwhile, the other wineries added their own gems to the evening. Romanelli, established in 1988, is a family that reverently preserves Umbrian winemaking traditions. Their wines are beautifully expressive, with a soulful authenticity that spoke of the land and their sustainable practices. I especially enjoyed their Rosso Umbro, a harmonious blend that balanced earthiness and subtle fruit in a way that felt both historic and fresh.
Cocco Ilaria, led by the formidable Ilaria Cocco herself, brought a breath of artisanal freshness to the table. Her philosophy centers on organic practices and craftsmanship. The Trebbiano Spoletino she presented was a lively, crisp white with notes of citrus, green apple, and a touch of mineral salinity—showcasing all the elegance this native Italian grape can deliver. Her Sagrantino, bold and layered with dark fruit, spice, and earthy nuances, underscored her dedication to tradition infused with modern vibrancy.
Valdangius, a charming family-run estate, offered a heartfelt perspective on sustainability. Their Sagrantino was a bold yet refined expression filled with ripe dark fruit, a hint of spice, and silky tannins—reflecting generations of love for their land. Tasting their wine felt like sharing a warm family dinner—authentic, genuine, and full of passion.
And then came the artistic highlight: the presence of Tenute Lunelli’s Carapace. Their estate designed by renowned artist Arnaldo Pomodoro, houses their exceptional 2017 Sagrantino Lungattessa. Every sip revealed layers of elegance and power—think blackberries, dark chocolate, and a hint of balsamic, with a long, silky finish. This wine embodies the perfect marriage of art, innovation, and respect for the terroir, making it a truly unforgettable highlight of the evening. Alessandro Lunelli’s presence and his pouring of this masterpiece added an extra touch of Italian elegance and passion.
As the evening wound down, Filippo introduced a fascinating trio of digestifs that I had never encountered before—each one a gem of Italian herbal tradition. First was the Antica Torino Vermouth Rosso, a vibrant, aromatic vermouth with a rich blend of botanicals, perfectly balanced with a slightly sweet and bitter profile that begged for slow sips. Next was Amoro della Sacra, a herbal liqueur infused with sacred herbs like salvia and rosemary, delivering a complex, slightly bitter profile that seemed to embody centuries of Italian herbal wisdom. Then came the Vino Chinato, a fortified wine infused with cinchona bark and aromatic herbs—warm, spicy, and intricately layered. Finally, the Liquore di Genziana—a bitter herbal liqueur made from gentian roots, offering a refreshing yet complex experience that cleansed the palate and deepened the evening’s contemplative mood.
This evening was not just about tasting great wines; it was about connecting with history, culture, and the land itself. For any lover of Italy’s picturesque landscapes, compelling history, and exceptional wine, experiences like this leave an indelible mark. It’s a reminder that in Montefalco, every bottle tells a story—one of family, tradition, artistry, and enduring passion.
If you ever find yourself in Italy’s heartland, seek out these extraordinary producers, and above all, savor every moment—because here, every glass is a window into the soul of this remarkable land.
