A Virtual Trip to Romagna with Aldo Rametta
I recently had the pleasure of joining an inspiring virtual journey with Aldo Rametta—a masterful storyteller and passionate vintner—who took us deep into the heart of Emilia-Romagna’s rich viticultural landscape. More than just a tasting, it was an immersive experience weaving together history, family tradition, and the undeniable passion fueling this extraordinary region.
Set against the rolling hills of Appeninne Mountains, where Italy’s heart beats strong, brothers Aldo and Paolo Rametta are forging a bold new chapter in their ancestral homeland. Modigliani wine region is a hidden gem as this area has one foot bordering Tuscany and the other in Romagna, creating a unique tapestry of cultural beauty. The wines found here are distinct and exceptional that captures the heartbeat of the heritage and landscape. Drawing inspiration from their entrepreneurial background in renewable energy, they approached winemaking with a fresh perspective—blending tradition with innovation. As Aldo eloquently stated, "We consider ourselves first-generation winemakers of what we hope will be many." A sentiment reflecting their dedication to honoring their heritage while pushing boundaries.
Their journey began in 2016 with Poggio della Dogana and expanded in 2020 with the revival of Ronchi di Castelluccio, a historic estate carrying years of illustrious history. Here, a renaissance is underway—vines are being restored, and old traditions reimagined through sustainable practices and a deep respect for the land.
The Historic Ronchi di Castelluccio: Breathing New Life into a Legacy
Founded with roots reaching back to Gian Vittorio Baldi, Ronchi di Castelluccio is being meticulously restored under the brothers’ guidance, with Francesco Bordini at the helm. They’re replanting historic vines, emphasizing single-vineyard expressions, and celebrating each “ronco”—or parcel of land—with unique, individual personalities. From the legendary Ronco Casone to the intriguing Ronco della Simia, every bottle whispers stories of terroir, history, and local lore. With their limited production and unwavering respect for authenticity, the estate stands as a testament to the region’s potential for exceptional wines.
Poggio della Dogana: Where Tradition Embraces Innovation
Nestled along the historic border between Papal Romagna and Tuscany, Poggio della Dogana reflects the diverse tapestry of the region. Organic farming practices and a focus on native grape varieties define its character. Guided by Francesco Bordini, the estate crafts a portfolio that balances elegance with vibrancy—featuring Sangiovese classics like I Quattro Bastioni and the refined Santa Reparata, alongside aromatic whites like Belladama and Nubivago Trebbiano. Inspired by their artistic heritage, Aldo and Paolo pay tribute to their family roots by featuring sketches drawn by their great-great-grandfather Silvio Gordini on each label—a heartfelt homage to their history.
Modigliana’s wines are shaped by three key factors that enhance their complexity and elegance. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of 500 meters on the mountain, offering unique climatic conditions. Additionally, for every hectare of vineyards, there are four hectares of forest, contributing to the overall ecosystem and microclimate. The soil composition, predominantly sandstone (80%) with a smaller proportion of marl (20%), imparts distinct mineral qualities to the wines. In line with their philosophy of reflecting the true terroir, all wines undergo hand harvesting, spontaneous fermentation by hand and minimal intervention, ensuring that the vineyard’s unique character is beautifully preserved.
Tasting through Time and Terroir
Our tasting journey took us through both estates, revealing the soul of Romagna in every sip:
Belladama Romagna DOCG Albana Secco 2023: This dry Albana hails from 20-year-old vines rooted in yellow sands mixed with marl of Brisighella, nestled between 200 and 300 meters above sea level. An ode to Aldo and Paolo’s mother, Belladama’s label features a delicate flower sketch by their grandfather, blending family history with terroir’s expression. As Aldo beautifully put it, _“The wines carry the memory of the sea,”_ a fitting tribute to the vineyards only 35 km from the Adriatic coast. The wine matures over ten months in concrete tanks, where periodic bâtonage on the fine lees enhances richness, followed by at least four months in bottle to develop complexity. Its deep golden hue hints at the vibrant aromas within—citrus fruits like grapefruit and lemon, complemented by yellow flowers and fragrant herbs such as sage and rosemary. On the palate, a dance unfolds: fresh grapefruit and stone fruits meld with honeyed peaches, while herbal and saline notes, typical of Brisighella soils, add depth.
Farfarello Romagna DOCG Albana Secco: From the same pristine vineyards as Belladama, this Albana is crafted in an international style—more rounded and complex. Aged in French oak barriques with a gentle toasting for nine months and then in bottle for at least a year, it embodies vibrancy and sophistication. The color shimmers golden; the nose is an inviting tapestry of ripe pear, zesty lemon zest, and wild herbs. The palate offers immediate refreshment—bright citrus flavors intertwined with a mineral backbone and a subtle hint of almond that lingers. Elegant yet lively, Farfarello promises both instant pleasure and the potential for further development—making it perfect for seafood, light pasta dishes, or simply savoring on its own for a sunny escape.
Buco del Prete Romagna DOC Sangiovese 2021: From vines planted in 1989 perched at 280 meters—discovered after decades of abandonment—this Sangiovese is a true hidden gem. Its label, inspired by the woods surrounding the vineyard, illustrates a bottom-up view that evokes a sensory journey into its rustic soul. After 12 months aging in large 3,000-liter oak barrels and a further year in bottle, the wine reveals a lively personality. Vibrant red fruit—ripe cherry and wild strawberry—are complemented by nuanced notes of rose, oregano, cocoa, and spice. Bright acidity balances silky tannins, making each sip both refreshing and inviting. A perfect expression of Modigliana’s rugged charm.
Ronco Casone Romagna DOC Sangiovese 2020: Named after a family nickname, this wine originates from a northwest-facing cru at 300 meters altitude, just a stone’s throw from Simia. It presents a leaner, more elegant profile—yet one full of depth and character. Juicy, with vibrant notes of ripe cherry, plum, and a touch of Mediterranean herbs, this Sangiovese exudes freshness and finesse. The high acidity and fine, sticky tannins create a harmonious balance, inviting contemplation and pairing beautifully with roasted meats or aged cheeses. It reflects the region’s soulful vitality.
Ronco della Simia Romagna DOC Sangiovese 2020: Meaning “Monkey,” this vintage pays homage to a local legend—an American soldier who settled in Modigliana after WWII with his pet monkey. When the monkey passed away, the soldier bought a vineyard near a well as a tribute. Grown on east-facing plots at 440 meters, this Sangiovese exhibits a deeper, fuller body thanks to more sun exposure. The intense ruby hue introduces an inviting bouquet of ripe cherry, plum, and a delicate touch of Mediterranean herbs. On the palate, it’s fresh and lively, with juicy red fruits balanced by lively acidity and silky tannins. An expressive, soulful wine that captures the vibrant spirit of its mountainside origin.
Ronco dei Ciliegi Romagna DOC Sangiovese 2020: Named after two magnificent cherry trees that spontaneously appeared during planting, this wine originates from east-facing vineyards at 380 meters. After a meticulous restoration of the historic 1975 plantings in 2019, aged in tonneau for ten months, followed by two years in bottle. Its intense ruby color hints at its richness. Aromas of sour cherry, pepper, and a touch of balsamic unfold seamlessly on the nose, inviting exploration. On the palate, bright, ripe cherry, wild strawberry, and a whisper of violet combine with a gentle, supple.
More than just wineries, Ronchi di Castelluccio and Poggio della Dogana are testaments to a family's dedication to quality, sustainability, and the vibrant spirit of Romagna. With a focus on biodiversity, a commitment to sustainable agriculture, and the ambitious vision to integrate agri-voltaic projects, the Rametta brothers are crafting not only exceptional wines but also a legacy for future generations to enjoy.
Discover the soul of Romagna through the captivating wines of Ronchi di Castelluccio and Poggio della Dogana, and experience the perfect blend of history, innovation, and family passion.
