Collavini: Double the Pleasure - A Personal Dive into Friulian Excellence
The rolling hills of Friuli Venezia Giulia aren't just picturesque; they hum with a quiet dedication to winemaking tradition, now vibrantly intertwined with a spirit of innovation. Recently, I had the distinct pleasure of immersing myself in the world of Eugenio Collavini, a winery whose name has echoed through generations for its pioneering approach and truly exceptional wines.
My exploration of Collavini unfolded in a delightful two-part harmony. First, the bustling energy of VinItaly, where I had the privilege of meeting Luigi Collavini himself, a charming representative of the family's fourth generation. His passion for their history was infectious, his storytelling peppered with warm anecdotes as we tasted through a selection of their wines. The vertical flight of their flagship "Broy" was particularly illuminating, showcasing the beautiful dance of vintage variation in this captivating blend. Knowing I had a virtual tasting on the horizon, Luigi and his team thoughtfully ensured I sampled a diverse range, including a few surprises, setting the stage for a fascinating comparison with the bottles that would soon arrive at my doorstep back in the USA.
Ribolla Gialla Brut 2020: The process begins with gentle crushing and cool primary fermentation, partially in stainless steel and partially in barrique. The signature "Collavini Method" then takes center stage, with secondary fermentation occurring slowly over three lunar cycles in large horizontal tanks, followed by an extended maturation of 30 months on its lees. This patient approach yields a wine of brilliant straw yellow hue, animated by a delicate and persistent perlage. The aromatic profile is elegant, hinting at nectarine, white fig, green apple, and subtle floral notes of acacia and almond blossom, underscored by a whisper of minerality. On the palate, the wine is vibrant and fresh, its fruit-driven flavors echoing the nose with a lively acidity and a refined mousse. The extended lees contact contributes a pleasing texture and a lingering, aromatic finish, often with a touch of saline precision.
Benedete Ribolla Gialla 2024: Bright and refreshing, offers a vibrant expression of this Friulian native. Expect a nose brimming with fresh citrus notes like lemon verbena and grapefruit, underscored by subtle hints of green apple. The palate is clean and tangy, displaying a lovely minerality and a touch of delicate fruitiness.
Collavini Villa Canlungo Pinot Grigio DOC Collio 2024- a vibrant and aromatic profile. Expect enticing aromas of fresh pear and white peach, lifted by a subtle floral note and a distinct minerality characteristic of the Collio terroir. On the palate, it's dry and refreshing with a lovely concentration of fruit, a zesty acidity, and a clean, persistent finish that invites another sip.
Collavini T-Friulano DOC Collio 2023 offers a distinctive expression of Friulano, a signature grape of the Friuli region. Expect inviting aromas of white flowers, almond, and pear, with subtle hints of citrus and herbs. The palate is typically dry and medium-bodied, with a pleasing texture, vibrant acidity, and a characteristic note of almond on the finish. This wine is known for its balanced profile, combining freshness with a delicate complexity
Vertical Broy 2015, 2019, 2022:
I had the distinct pleasure of embarking on a compelling vertical tasting of Broy, the flagship white wine from the esteemed Collavini estate in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The tasting featured the 2015, 2019, and 2022 vintages, offering a fascinating glimpse into the evolution of this benchmark regional wine.
Broy is a carefully crafted blend, predominantly composed of Friulano (typically around 50%), complemented by Chardonnay (around 30%) and Sauvignon Blanc (around 20%). Luigi illuminated the origins of Broy, a wine conceived with the 2003 vintage as a clear benchmark for regional excellence. Over the years, the winemaking philosophy behind Broy has undergone distinct phases, each contributing to the wine's evolving character:
-Early Vintages (2003-2008): This initial period embraced malolactic fermentation, a technique aimed at achieving an American-inspired oak along with harmony in the wine's acidity.
-Subsequent Period (2008-2018): This era marked a shift towards minimal intervention, consciously eschewing the use of oak. The focus was on yielding a wine of pure, opulent beauty, which included a period of six months of aging on its fine lees to enhance texture and complexity.
-Current Approach (Initiated in 2018): The current winemaking strategy incorporates aging in Burgundian barrels, introducing a new dimension to the wine's structure and aromatic profile.
Adding a unique layer to Broy's production is the meticulous pre-fermentation handling of the Chardonnay and Friulano grapes. These varietals are rested on trays within a temperature-controlled environment, a technique intriguingly reminiscent of Amarone production. This gentle dehydration process serves to concentrate the fruit's inherent richness and intensity.
Here are my impressions from the tasting:
2015: This vintage presented a rich gold hue, offering an opulent bouquet of tropical fruit.
2019: Displaying a light gold color, the 2019 vintage showcased intriguing fresh green vegetable notes, reminiscent of sweet pea, alongside savory herbs and a subtle hint of cheese.
2022: The youngest of the trio, the 2022 vintage exhibited a vibrant yellow color, with a fresh and inviting aromatic profile of yellow and stone fruits.
This vertical tasting of Collavini Broy offered a compelling narrative of a wine dedicated to regional excellence, showcasing the impact of evolving winemaking philosophies and vintage variation on its distinctive character. It's a testament to Collavini's commitment to crafting exceptional white wines from the heart of Friuli.
Turian Schioppettino Friuli Colli Orientali 2020 presents enticing aromas of vibrant red berries, such as raspberry and cherry, interwoven with distinctive notes of black pepper, and subtle hints of forest floor. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with lively acidity, fine-grained tannins, and a characteristic peppery spice that adds complexity to the long, savory finish.
Collavini Pignolo 2013 offers a compelling profile of dark cherry and plum notes, layered with hints of leather, earth, and a touch of spice. On the palate, it's medium-bodied with firm tannins that have softened with age, providing structure and a lingering finish. A savory and intriguing expression of this unique Friulian varietal.
A few weeks later, the connection continued, this time from the comfort of my home in Rhode Island. Despite battling a bit of a cold, Luigi joined me for an intimate virtual tasting, his engaging spirit undimmed. His quick wit, easy humor, and the personal family stories he shared made the experience truly special. With a humble conviction, he stated, "Friuli makes the best whites of Italy, not because of the people but due to the terroir." He painted a vivid picture of this small region's unique confluence of a cooler climate, Alpine influence, distinct "ponca" soils, and proximity to the sea, all contributing to a signature freshness and minerality in their wines.
And then, the tasting itself – a delightful journey through the Collavini portfolio:
Il Grigio Spumante NV: This sparkler, a graceful blend of Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay, presented a delicate mousse of fine, persistent bubbles. The wine is aged for six months in tank before bottling. The aromas were bright and inviting – think zesty citrus, crisp green apple, and a subtle saline whisper. It truly felt like a beautiful marriage between the easy-drinking charm of Prosecco and the refined elegance of Champagne. Notably, this Spumante was enjoyed by Princess Diana and Prince Charles during their honeymoon celebrations aboard the Britannia while docked in Venice.
Villa Canlungo Pinot Grigio DOC Collio 2023: This wasn't your typical light Pinot Grigio. It boasted a wonderful concentration while maintaining a lovely, lighter mouthfeel. Notes of fresh pear and white peach mingled with a refreshing mineral lift – pure sunshine bottled, perfect for a warm summer day.
T-Friulano DOC Collio 2023: Luigi's passionate declaration that Friulano is the "star grape of Collio" resonated with every sip. He likened it to a captivating cross between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and I could see why. This wine was rich and full-bodied, unfolding with layers of juicy stone fruit and delicate almond blossom, all underscored by that characteristic Friulano saline note. The textural finish, with a hint of bitter almond, made it incredibly complex and undeniably food-friendly.
Turian Ribolla Gialla Friuli Colli Orientali 2022: It's impossible to talk about Collavini without acknowledging their pivotal role in the renaissance of Ribolla Gialla. Luigi explained how this generous grape demands meticulous care in the vineyards. The resulting wine was beautifully floral, with bright lemon zest notes and a luxurious, silky texture that lingered on the palate with grace.
Broy DOC Collio 2021: Luigi described this vintage as "one of the most interesting in the last 15 years" for their flagship white blend. The cooler spring had resulted in a wine with remarkable expressiveness, vibrant acidity, and a distinct freshness. He aptly called it a "postcard of Friuli," a true reflection of their exceptional terroir. Layers of ripe apricot, warm vanilla, and subtle hazelnut unfolded in a wine that felt both rich and age-worthy.
Turian Schioppettino Friuli Colli Orientali 2021: This red offered a delightful surprise. It had substance and presence, showcasing juicy red berry fruit alongside a playful pop of pepper. Its refreshing character and velvety tannins made it incredibly approachable and enjoyable.
The story of Eugenio Collavini is far more than just the history of a winery; it's a compelling testament to the power of vision, the courage to embrace innovation, and the enduring strength of family. It's a captivating narrative of how one estate helped shape the very identity of a renowned wine region, leaving an indelible mark on the world of fine wine. Discover the legacy, taste the innovation – experience the extraordinary world of Eugenio Collavini. My heartfelt thanks to Luigi for allowing me this in-depth glimpse into his world.
