A Journey of the Jura
Recently, I found myself back at my old stomping grounds, the Commonwealth Wine School in Boston, for a Jura trade tasting event that promised to be both enlightening and enriching. The highlight of the day? A captivating session led by the renowned British wine writer and educator Wink Lorch. Her latest book, Jura Wine Ten Years On, serves as an insightful companion to her earlier work, Jura Wine, offering a deeper dive into the enigmatic Jura region.
“Jura is upside down when it comes to wine - you drink the reds early and chilled, the whites are aged, bottled after the reds and are best at room temperature.
In her latest book, Jura Wine Ten Years On, British wine writer and educator Wink Lorch offers a captivating sequel to her acclaimed work, Jura Wine. This new volume explores the enigmatic Jura region, known for its diverse and intriguing wines, from red to the unique ouillé styles, celebrating the authenticity of its winemakers. Wink Lorch delves into the transformations the region has undergone over the past decade, where climate change has posed challenges by reducing wine volumes even as global demand for Jura's wines skyrockets.
During an enlightening tasting session, we journeyed through six handpicked Jura wines with Lorch, gaining insights into each bottle's story.
1. Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand Arbois-Pupillin Ploussard "La Rouge", 2020: Much like Syrah, this Ploussard is wonderfully reductive, showcasing a classic pale garnet hue. Expect rustic charm, red berries, high acidity, light tannins, and a delightful spice that lingers on the palate.
2. Jean Luc Mouillard Côtes du Jura Trousseau 2022: This offering provides more structure than Ploussard, featuring darker fruit with a dusty bramble character, medium chalky tannins, and high acidity—a standout choice for those who relish complexity.
3. Croix & Courbet Côtes du Jura 'En Beaumont' Savagnin Ouillé 2022: Crafted like a Burgundy but aged for 18 months in demi-muid barrels, this wine is rich in terroir, boasting a salty citrus profile that captivates the senses.
4. Domaine du Pélican Arbois Chardonnay 2022: Embracing Burgundian methods, this Chardonnay offers a saline, citrus, and stone fruit medley, with delicate spice and a prolonged hazelnut finish—an exquisite high-acid, medium-bodied delight.
5. Domaine Bourdy Côtes du Jura Chardonnay 2020: With a slightly oxidative character, it bursts with lemon curd aromas. As noted by Laura Beauty, the cellar’s influence dominates the nose, while the acidity remains superbly high and refreshing.
6. Domaine A&M Tissot Arbois Savagnin 'Sous Voile' 2020: Aged 33 months sous voile, this wine presents a symphony of nuts, dried stone and citrus fruit, and fenugreek, offering a creamy, cheesy elegance that balances the elegant structure and savory character beautifully.
The session was more than just a tasting; it was a journey through time and terroir, revealing how Jura's wines have evolved and adapted. For those of us lucky enough to attend, it was a reminder of the enduring charm and resilience of this remarkable wine region.
